John and Kathy Boehm
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5 February 2004 These are the before photos of my latest restoration, It is a Silver King, serial #3050.

End of the day, 5 Feb 2004
Engine is stuck, but there is no rust in the cylinders, one brake lever is stuck

6 Feb 2004. Engine is coming apart on the table. Valves are out of engine, no problems, but they were tough to remove. Transmission looks good


15 Feb 2004. The Silver King is pretty much apart and on the shelf. Cleanup in preparation for rebulding is now in progress. The lower photo show the transmission case which I was cleaning up and checking out today.

21Feb, Final drive parts cleaned up and ready for assembly

25 Feb, Transmission cleaned up, differential case attached, final drives going together

26 Feb More work on the final drives, pto also attached.

27 Feb - In the meantime, Matt has been putting the engine together, here it is on the bench upside down and ready for the oil pan.

27 Feb - my other helper, Brandon, cleaning partson the wire wheel

27 Feb- Matt getting the oil pan ready to install

27 Feb - An hour later, quitting time for the day and we have the engine attached to the transmission/final drive assembly, plus the head installed


6 March 04, Primed the wheels, tractor, and many other loose parts. Note that I've decided to use the heavy cast iron wheels made by the Santa Ana Iron Works, Santa Ana, California. These were originally on SK #1656.

25 October 2004. After several months of no work on it, I've put a few more parts together over the past month and today I shot the first coat of silver paint. Now on to more assembly and hopefully an engine that will run!

9 Dec 2004- In the last few weeks, I put many more parts on the tractor, including the axle and front wheels. It received a second coat of silver paint and the wheels were painted red. I also tried starting it. I got a few puffs out of it, but would not run. I also had a problem of oil leaking between the flywheel housing and the bottom engine support frame. I removed the axle and the engine bottom to discover that the gasket between the two had slipped up during assembly (Matt!!!), allowing oil to seep out (circled area in photo above). In addition, the outer edges of the manifold did not seem to be sealing tight against the block. I think this may be why the engine would not run. After removing the manifold, I put a straight edge across the mounting surface, and sure enough, it is warped. The manifold is now at the machine shop, where it will be surfaced straight. These two setbacks have delayed the project, but I hope to be back on track soon and hope to hear it run!

16 Dec 2004. The oil pan gaskets were replaced and the oil leak problem is solved.The wheels were installed and another coat of red paint applied.

13 Jan 05- Since last time, the tires were installed and I belted it up to another tractor to turn the engine over and get it broken in somewhat. I hooked up a gas tank to see how well it would run. It fired up, ran rough, and wouldnt keep it running. It didnt run it too long wince the radiator was not connected and there was no coolant. Next I connected the radiator and shell and new hoses. The next step will be to belt it up again and see if it will run better. I think the problem may be in the carburetor or in the throttle linkage.


30 January 2005- I tried a different carburetor and some new plugs. It would fire while belted up but not run on its own. It was putting out black smoke from the exhaust, but adjusting the carb did not help and some of the plugs were running much cooler than others, even though all the plugs were firing when they were removed from the engine. The culprit turned out to be valves very badly out of adjustment. I thought Matt adjusted them, I guess he thought I did. Anyway, after adjusting them properly, the engine fired right up and ran smoothly. We tried hand cranking it, but it had a bad habit of wanting to backfire with your hand still on the crank. The solution was to pull the magneto timing gear out, rotate it by one tooth and reinsert it. It now starts easily with the hand crank. I adjusted the throttle linkage and some other items. Engine seems to be fine. The next problem is in the clutch. It won't release all the way and I need the redjust the arm on the yoke. I'm still trying to remove the arm. I'm also worried that the new clutch springs may be too strong. Once the problem is solved, I'm ready for a clean up, another paint job, and final assembly.


3 March 2005- Done!! Well almost, I still need to find the correct gas and radiator caps and a gear shift knob. But it runs well and starts easily. Since the last series of photos, we moved the clutch rod arm on the clutch yoke to increase the amount of release, shot another coat of silver, and completed the final assembly. Some of you have asked about the paint I used- it is Western Automotive Finish W591 Hi-Glo Star-Glo Silver Metallic and W571 Hi-Glo Swift Red. I used Western Automotive Reducer and an acrylic hardener with it.